Running Shoe Basics
I.
Why
Not a Walking Shoe?
1. Waist: Flip the shoe over and look at the
bottom/outsole. The part between the
fore foot and the heel is called the “waist”.
Running shoes will have a stiff piece of plastic there to help increase
the stability of the shoe when you’re toeing off. Shoes should only flex in the forefoot!!!
2.
Breathability:
Running shoes have more mesh to allow for sweat to escape and for air to enter
and cool the foot. Also, running shoes
have less “upper materials”/overlays, which can be kinder to folks with
bunions, hammertoes, etc. (and will lighten the shoe).
3.
Sock
Absorption: To quote from coolrunning.com, “Running shoes are designed to
handle the shock of 2.5 times your body weight that is created by the impact
each time your foot strikes the ground.”
4.
Heel:
When you run/walk fast, you put more stress on the lateral/outside part of your
foot’s heel. Running shoes will have a
harder type of rubber on this part of the shoe for more durability. Also, running shoes will typically add gel or
special foam to this part of the heel to allow for shock attenuation, which is
fancy speak for “weakening the intensity/force of the shock”.
II.
Shoe
life
1. How long do they
live??
a.
300-500
miles is average
b.
20
miles a week lasts you about 6 months (so running/walking 30-40 miles per week
might get you 3-4 months, for example)
c.
Look
at outsole (bottom) of shoe for bald spots (like tire tread) and color bleed,
and the midsole (the white squishy part) for deep wrinkles (compression set, where
the midsole has lost its resiliency/rebound)
d.
Biggest
rule: Listen to your body!!! Most
people, it’s their knees or hips that complain when their shoes are dead,
sometimes it’s the feet that feel it first.
2. But why do they die?
a.
Surface
(concrete will wear out a shoe faster than a treadmill)
b.
Temperature
(heat breaks down shoes faster)
c.
Gait
(Hard heel or forefoot strikers can break down a shoe faster, these folks
literally shear off the shoe’s outsole.
This can be bad because now you’re changing the angle at which your foot
lands, and this can be harder on the hips/knees)
d.
Design
of shoe (lightweight shoes break down faster as they have less midsole, hence
less shock absorbing)
III.
What
are the types of shoe?
1.
Stability
(most common)
2.
Cushioned/neutral
3.
Motion
Control
4.
Lightweight/Racing
flat
IV.
How
do I know which type of shoe is right for me?
1.
Test
for arch flexibility
a.
Stand
full weight on one leg, bend the knee (let it fall where it wants) try to look back
at your self to see if your ankle falls to the inside/medial side. Did it? If so, that’s overpronation
b.
Stand
on a flat surface on one leg, bend the knee, looking in a mirror to your medial
side, did the arch flatten?
**The author
doesn’t like to rely on the wet test because it’s typically done without weight
being loaded on to the foot. In other
words, it’s more a test of arch height as opposed to arch flexibility. That’s why at On The Run we like to watch
people walk when fitting customers for shoes, be it on the store’s floor or on
our treadmill.
2.
Now pick your shoes
a.
If
you answered “yes” to both questions in IV, you’re most likely stability. You need a shoe that has a “medial post”
(typically grey in color, as opposed to the rest of the midsole, which is
usually white). The rubber in the post
is denser than the surrounding rubber of the midsole, so when your arch tries
to flatten, the denser rubber won’t let the arch fall so much/fast/often.
b.
If
you answered “no” to both questions in IV, you’re most likely cushioned. The density of the midsole of the shoe is the
same all throughout the shoe so it will encourage overpronation (which allows
your body to absorb shock).
c.
If
you’re arch was so low that it was already touching the ground without bending
your knee, then you’re most likely motion control. The “medial post” will go back to the heel to
help slow overpronation as soon as your heel hits the ground. Also, the medial post is often times
“reinforced” with hard plastic to help support the post. These shoes often times have extra cushioning
as well.
d.
Are
you looking for shoes for racing, speed work, tempo runs, etc? Then a Lightweight trainer or racing flat is
for you. These won’t last as long (say
100-300 for a flat and 300-400 for a lightweight trainer), they will work your
calves/Achilles (stretching is important after use), and they don’t absorb as
much shock (less midsole, less fancy shock absorbing technology such as gels,
etc). But, to quote from Runners World:
“Will they make you faster? Yes. Studies have shown that if the load on your
feet is lightened by 200 grams (about six ounces, the [typical] weight
difference between training shoes and racing flats), you'll take one to two
percent less time to cover a given distance--so, for a 24-minute 5-K, you can
shave 12 to 20 seconds off your time by wearing racing flats.”
V.
Other things to consider with shoes
1.
But I need maximum stability or
cushioning! If you’re willing to pay the
price, there are “plus” versions of stability and cushioned shoes. The plus categories can cost $30-$40 more for
a pair. They’re typically designed for
medium to larger frames (females 150+lbs and males 180+ lbs). The differences typically include more
cushioning (throughout the shoe as opposed to little “plugs” just in the heel
and forefoot), more advanced cushioning technologies (adding gel as opposed to
just foam and/or using more specialized foams in strategic locations) and if
they’re stability, a reinforced medial post and/or a longer medial post.
2.
Should I get more than one pair of shoes? Personally, if you’re running/walking 3 or
less days a week, not so much. If you’re
running/walking 5 or more, yes. If
you’re running/walking 4, it’s up to you.
It is advisable to let you’re shoes “rebound” after a workout, and if
you’re always wearing they same pair of shoes, it’s hard for them to do that
and they’ll break down faster. Also, if
you’re feet get sweaty and/or the shoes get muddy, a second pair will allow for
drying time.
a.
Ideally, running/walking shoes are for
running/walking only. This way
it’s easier to keep track of the life/miles in the shoe. Also, they get more of a chance to
“rebound”. Further, your running/walking
shoes can get to smelling pretty rank, so why would you want to wear them
around anyway????
3.
Lace them up properly! You should NOT be able to take your shoes off
without unlacing them!!!!! Running shoes
often have support technologies to help keep your arch nice and centered in the
shoes (i.e. New Balance 903 and “In-Lock”).
If you’re lacing your shoes loosely, then your foot isn’t getting the
support it needs. FYI, the author laces
up her shoes while standing and putting full weight into the foot. That way you avoid lacing too tightly (yes,
there can be a fine line). And there are
neat ways to lace up your shoes if you’re dealing with a loose heel and/or
painful spots on your instep/top of foot.
Remember, just as in eye sight, your two feet are typically not the
same. So the lacing you use for one shoe
might have to be different for the other shoe.
4.
So how do I clean my shoes? If you must, there are a few tried and true
methods. One, spray ‘em down with a
garden hose. Two, remove laces and
insole and clean shoes with a soft brush and some water with really mild
detergent (think Woolite or Dreft, the shoe shouldn’t smell of detergent when
done). Three, again, remove laces and
insole and put the shoes in the washing machine, gentle cycle-cold with mild
detergent. ALWAYS LET YOUR SHOES AIR
DRY!
The heat of the dryer is right about the same temperature needed to
help loosen the glue that keeps your shoe’s midsole attached. The author hears that stuffing shoes with
newspapers helps speed the drying process, but she doesn’t read the newspaper
and has no personal knowledge on this matter.
5.
Let’s size things up.
a.
Size should be taken while standing, preferably
with the customer wearing the socks they’ll be using with the shoes. If you have flexible feet, when you stand
your arches will flatten to lengthen out your feet to their true size.
b.
Take width into account (especially if dealing with
bunions, neuromas, numbness)
c.
Buy shoes at end of day if possible and/or after
your workout. That way your feel will be
nice and swollen.
d.
Don’t be surprised to find that your running shoe
size might run a ½ to even full size larger than your dress shoe size. Generally you want a thumbnail or index
finger’s width between your longest toe and the end of the shoe. You should also be able to wiggle your
toes. Two ways to tell if the shoe is
too long are if the heel slips and/or the arch feels like it’s in the wrong
spot.
e.
As was alluded to earlier, it is common for one
foot to be longer and/or wider, so don’t be surprised if that happens to you!!
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